Not really a trip report, but...

[BigTexan]

Howdy All,

This isn't a "trip report" per se, but I thought I would share a (condensed) story about my first meeting with people from the Soviet Union (yes, the USSR). I served in the US Coast Guard from 1977 - 1981. The first 2 1/2 years, I served on a 378' High Endurance Cutter, and I made five ALPAT's, or Alaska Patrols. On these patrols, we would board large fishing and factory trawlers from Japan, Tiawan, Korea, and the USSR.

Every member of the crew could volunteer to be in the boarding party, and I was a regular member. My first visit on a Soviet ship was the most memorable - anyone who remembers the cold war during that time will attest that the Russians were mysterious people to most Americans. All I really knew about them was political propaganda. I had seen their May Day parades with all the tanks, missiles, and soldiers. As a small boy, I had learned to "duck and cover" in case the Soviets dropped a nuclear bomb on us. They were the enemy, people to be suspicious of... all of this made for a very excited 18 year old sailor when I was told I would be boarding a Soviet ship the next day.

So, the morning arrived and I was prepared. We were briefed - basically reminded that we were ambassador's of the United States, to behave appropriately, and not to bring any contraband like cigarettes, magazines, or anything else to trade. I was also unofficially briefed by friends who had boarded Soviet ships before - they advised to bring a carton of Marlboro cigarettes, magazines, and rock and roll music cassettes. I took the advice of my friends.

The Bering Sea was a little rough and choppy, as usual for November. We all wore wetsuits with sidearms. We were in the middle of a fleet of roughly 40 Soviet ships, and we headed towards a large factory trawler. it loomed above us - huge and gray with dark rust stains streaking down the sides. it looked like it had been out to sea for some time (the factories would go out for up to two years at a time). But what stood out was the smoke stack. It was painted bright red with the gold Sickle and Hammer symbol of the USSR. It was the only part of the ship that appeared freshly painted.

We were close enough to see faces peering over the side, and could see they were lowering a jacob's ladder down for us. Boarding a ship in a choppy sea is a tricky and dangerous business. It is a matter of timing. You ride a wave towards the ship, and must leap onto the ladder before the sea pulls the small boat away. Then you must climb the ladder before the sea throws the small boat against the side of the ship again. I was the third to go, and as I reached the top of the ladder, a Russian man grabbed me by the arm and helped me get on board.

Safely aboard, I took a look around. There was a crowd of people watching the scene, mostly men, but also some women. They looked at us like we were from another planet, and I suppose, we looked at them in a similar way. Soon, the entire party was on board and we began our inspection.

The main purpose of the inspection was to ensure that no fish deemed illegal were being caught in American territorial waters. Finding even a single instance of an illegal species of fish was grounds for seizure of the vessel. The factory ships are amazing. They catch, process and package the fish all on the same ship. They had a 24 hour a day operation with three 8 hour shifts... anyway, the inspection went well. After the inspection the two officers had 2-3 hours of paperwork to complete with the ships captain. The enlisted men were left to their own devices.

So my two shipmates and I went to the fantail (the rear) of the ship, leaned up on the rail, and had a cigarette. There was a group of perhaps 10 men standing perhaps 20 feet away. Every one of them was watching us - hands in pockets, or smoking, and making idle chatter. They looked at us, and we looked at them. Then one man stepped forward with a camera in his hand, and asked in fairly good English if he could take our photo. We replied "Of course." Soon, photos were being taken with us and the entire group, arms around each others shoulders, smile and some laughter. Then the man asked if he could take photos of us with "some Russian women". My friends and looked at each other and smile (after all we had not seen a woman in two months) and replied "YES!".

As if on cue, a group of 5 or 6 ladies came out of a hatchway (I think from the mess deck). We marveled at them - they were all finely dressed, wearing cosmetics, and looked like they had just had their hair done. When they got close for the photo's, we could smell their perfume. I was prepared to pose for photos all day!

Then the man with the camera introduced himself as the 3rd Officer of the ship, and invited us to a stateroom for refreshments. We agreed, and off we went. The stateroom had a large table with room for about 12 seats. Of course, more people than that wanted to be there. I was lucky enough to be seated next to an absolutely beautiful young lady about my age. She was a vision - jet black hair, deep blue eyes, nice figure. Just lovely. There were perhaps three people who spoke English, so conversations were translated back and forth. A older woman came in with a large tray of sausages and cheese, and everyone was helping themselves. The room was smoky from cigarettes, and loud with talk.

I noticed a cassette player on a shelf and decided to ask if I could hear some music - I had never heard Russian music, and wanted to make the most of my experience. But it seemed no one could understand what I was asking for. So I was saying "Music, music!" and started to play air guitar. Suddenly the young lady next me lit up and said "Гитара!" She stood up and quickly went out of the room. When she returned a few minutes later, she had in her hand a beautiful acoustic guitar, and handed it to me. I was caught off guard - I can play now, but at the time I really only knew a few chords. So I strummed it a little, and handed it back to her, encouraging her to play.

She proceeded to play and sing a beautiful song. I didn't understand a word, but I didn't have to. She had a wonderful voice, and was an accomplished player. I was hypnotized as I watched and listened. When she finished, everyone applauded, and I turned to the man on my right (who spoke some English) and jokingly said to him, "Ask her if I can have her telephone number!". He said something to her in Russian, and to my utter and complete surprise, she wrote her address on a piece of paper and handed it to me. Wow.

About this time, the man with the camera went to a cabinet, and brought out two bottles of vodka. One of the ladies passed out small dainty shot glasses - not short and fat like in America, but long and thin, like your little finger. The glasses were filled, and our host made a toast to "Our new American friends!". Then we began to make toasts back and forth - "To the Soviet Union!", "To American women!", "To Russian women!" etc... 5 or 6 shots in, I pull out the carton of Marlboro's and toss packs of cigarettes out to anyone who wanted one. The crowd was feeling good, with lots of loud chatter and laughs.

Finally it was time to go. Feeling a little drunk, I made my way down the ladder into the small boat. My new friends looking over the rail, tossing packs of Russian cigarettes to us - my special new friend, Lena, giving me one last smile as we pulled away.

I bought a Russian/English dictionary in Kodiak two weeks later. I wrote to Lena in Russian - looking up every single word in the dictionary. We wrote to each other for six years - until she got married. By then I was out of the military and at home. Then one day in 1992, I heard from her for the last time. She sent me a cable from Turkey. The cable simply said "Never forget your Russian devushka."

I never have.

[SANDRO43]

Not really a trip report, but...a unique and memorable experience all the same

[Kineo]

 
Those kinds of experiences become permanently implanted in our minds for good reason! 
 
 

[Hammer2722]

Great story!!! Thanks so much for sharing it!!!

[BC]

Now THAT is one heck of a TR.

Thoroughly enjoyed it!

Thanks.

[OlgaH]

Thank you Big Texan for sharing! I also enjoyed it! 

[I/O]

to my utter and complete surprise, she wrote her address on a piece of paper and handed it to me. Wow.

It's still the same.
 
BT: My first forray into Russia was nowhere near as important, sophisticated or interesting as yours but the result wasn't dissimilar. At one point, partying on with a bunch of Russian fishermen aboard an old boat throughout the night with some local flora mixed in.
 
Thanks for sharing, it's a sweet story.

[BigTexan]

Thanks for the nice comments. I could have easily written twice as much about that day - for example I discovered that the man with the camera was the political officer - he was doing his job, and keeping an eye on us. He and I even had a debate concerning the evils of rock and roll music after Lena played her song.

As for Lena - I was tempted to defect on the spot just to stay with her.  I've tried to locate her since our last communication, but with no luck. Maybe it's just as well, she will always be that 18 year old dream.

[Muzh]

Wow Big Guy, that was a wonderful story. I'm glad you shared it with us.

[calmissile]

Fantastic story.... brought tears to my eyes.

[JP5380]

 

[SANDRO43]

I could have easily written twice as much about that day

BigTexan, you seem to have a good 'hand' at writing, I'd encourage you to expand - just short of "Cold-War Romance on the Bering Sea" but then, who knows ?

[Vaughn]

About this time, the man with the camera went to a cabinet, and brought out two bottles of vodka.

Classic !!
 
 BigTexan, thank you for the candid glimpse of a rare East-West face to face during the Cold War. I served in the USAF as a Russian linguist (71-74) and would have killed for the opportunity you enjoyed.

[JohnDearGreen]

Then the man asked if he could take photos of us with "some Russian women". My friends and looked at each other and smile (after all we had not seen a woman in two months) and replied "YES!".
As if on cue, a group of 5 or 6 ladies came out of a hatchway (I think from the mess deck). We marveled at them - they were all finely dressed, wearing cosmetics, and looked like they had just had their hair done. 

A lady I met on a trip to Kyiv was a hostess on cruise ship trips.  She showed me pics of herself on the boat with the crew(all men) and hugging the captain.   I couldn't help wondering how many boyfriends she had on the ship.....Did you ever wonder or ask Lena if she had any kind of relationship with the men on the ship?

[viking]

Big Tex. Great story. Sorta reminds of the movie Letters to Juliet. Just ended a different way.

[BigTexan]

Thanks again for the nice comments! I'm glad you guys (and gal) liked it.

@SANDRO43 - Cold War Romance on the Bering Sea? I like it Actually I wrote a fuller version of this to share with my FSU friends, they encouraged me to write it. I go into much more detail - the preparation, the thoughts and emotions approaching that huge ship with that imposing insignia on the smokestack - and how it didn't seem so imposing anymore on the way back, the conversations, and general impressions. My FSU friends seem pleased that my impression of those people on the ship were very positive.

@Vaugn - Yes, I consider myself very fortunate to have had that opportunity. It was exciting at the time, and I look back on those times with great fondness. It is interesting to talk about those times with one friend in particular, who served in the Red Army at the same time I served in the military. The perspectives from the Soviet side are interesting to say the least.

@JohnDearGreen - No, I never asked Lena about anything like that, and she never mentioned anything. Our letters were friendly, and over time turned personal. Given the time in history, we both realized it would be impossible to see each other again, so we kept our communications pleasant and personal between us, with only generalities about relationships.

@viking - Hmmm, never seen it, but now I have visions of a screenplay

[SANDRO43]

@viking - Hmmm, never seen it, but now I have visions of a screenplay

I'd first start with a short story and see if any magazine may be interested in publishing it .   

[BigTexan]

LOL, I'm joking SANDRO - I'm no writer. I wouldn't have the first clue what to do (I mean besides write I guess).

[SANDRO43]

I'm no writer. I wouldn't have the first clue what to do (I mean besides write I guess).

Isn't that what writers are supposed to do ?

[Handycam72]

Enjoyed reading about your experience 

@Vaugn - Yes, I consider myself very fortunate to have had that opportunity. It was exciting at the time, and I look back on those times with great fondness. It is interesting to talk about those times with one friend in particular, who served in the Red Army at the same time I served in the military. The perspectives from the Soviet side are interesting to say the least.

Would be interesting to hear about the perspectives from the Soviet side