Time in Sochi

[mendeleyev]

It has been a busy, but successful several weeks since I've been able to post here.

In late May my wife received confirmation from Valentina Matviyenko, chair of the Federation Council (upper chamber, or Senate, of the Russian Duma) that Ms. Matviyenko would again sponsor (second year running) my wife for an award from the Kremlin and an exhibition of her art inside the Kremlin. Matviyenko is third in line in Russia's succession system and certainly someone to have in your corner.

Two days ago we delivered a collection of paintings along with the accompanying display tools to the Kremlin library. The exhibit will be a private one over several days exclusively for the current administration, members of the Russian Duma, and directors/heads of government agencies. Some of you know that for several years my wife has been a member of a small group of commissioned artists who have been documenting the lives of surviving Great Patriotic War (WWII) heroes.

The process includes painting a portrait of the decorated hero, and most capture how he may have looked back in that time period. Each painting is debuted in a ceremony honouring the hero at the Central Military Museum, signed by both the artist and the portrait subject, and the original painting is then toured across Russia in a rotation that includes city museums and schools before eventually returning to Moscow. It is a collection of these paintings that will be in the Kremlin exhibition.

In early June, my wife celebrated a birthday that included an small exhibition at a Moscow restaurant. Somewhere between 200-300 persons attended the by-invitation three hour event. I told her that she is far more popular than myself because I've never had so many attend a birthday party. 

She was honoured with several awards at the birthday party (3 from government agencies and 2 from news publications), and I've included one of those in photos below.

The MC and my wife had warned me that I would be called on to briefly speak and the host was true to his word. About midway thru the ceremony he asked how many in the audience knew her last name (my family name) and used that as a way to introduce me. As my family name is very Dutch, in my less than 2 minute comments, I told those gathered that friends and family from both Western Europe (Gollandiya--the Russian term for the Netherlands) and the USA sent their regards and birthday greetings to my wife and to the Russian people.

For the record, my comments were well received and afterwards many who I had never met wanted to share a photograph. That was a warm feeling. Several wanted to practice their German when speaking with me, only to have an "ah ha" moment when I politely explained that Netherlands folk speak Nederlands Dutch, not German.

During the entertainment portion, one of the singers sang a ballad while Mrs. M and I danced. We are not bad dancers, but neither are we professionals at it, and yet our dance received an ovation. Come to think of it, perhaps the applause was more for the singer, for my wife, or maybe that finally the American dude was off the dance floor. 

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[mendeleyev]

One humourous story before moving to our Sochi trip:

The morning of her birthday I went downstairs to the main floor bathroom to brush my teeth. My wife was already making her preparations for the big day and she glanced at my hair and then asked me to sit down on a stool.

"We are going to say goodbye to some white" was the way that she began and before I could protest, she was lathering my head. I knew that it wasn't shampoo from the aroma. "We'll only do a little" she said and soon I was being rinsed.

My natural hair colour is/was blond, but with maturity comes some white. About a half hour later she strode into the kitchen where several family members were having breakfast. She ran her fingers through my hair and then out of the blue, this normally semi-serious lady exclaims, "Yes, you are a spy! You are Blond, James Blond."

We all laughed because I have been accused of that more than a few times recently.

Later at her birthday exhibition I was corned by one older detractor who is a friend of the extended family, but not exactly a member of my best pals club. When he whispered a question regarding the USA and Russia, I took my wife's cue and told him that I was ready to confess. Indeed, I am Blond, James Blond.

Then I turned and walked away.

[mendeleyev]

Moscow was cold in early June, enough that we brought jackets and sweaters out of the closets including for daytime use. On the morning we left for Sochi (my birthday gift to my beautiful wife), it was 8 degrees (C)--that is 46 for our American friends.

We expected it to be cold in Sochi too, and weather reports indicated that the cold rain that was hitting Moscow was to follow us southward.

It didn't. In fact, Sochi was warm and it rained only briefly on one day. We stayed just a block from the beach at the Marins Park Hotel (4 star) and enjoyed our balcony view of the water.

For those who have yet to visit the Black Sea, it is a cold body of water and often freezes in winter. Outside temps were very comfortable, but the water caused swimmers to shiver and you had to force yourself to remain in the water until your body adjusted to the temp.

Beaches are rocky, of course. You can rent recliners and spaces on the beach near the boardwalks. We chose places that also had overhead awnings because the sun was out in full. Cost: About 200 rubles per day for two persons (65 rubles = one dollar). Most boardwalks have temporary changing booths for getting in and out of swimsuits.

[mendeleyev]

Costs in Sochi:

I paid the normal rate for the hotel because I wanted to make sure it was nice for her birthday. The facility and services at the hotel far exceeded our expectations at around $80 per night. I'll stay there again.

Most hotels include a buffet breakfast, with myriads of tasty options. If you like mashed potatoes with eggs and thick bacon for breakfast, or just a healthy fruit and oatmeal platter, then you are in for a treat.

Average lunch was around 500 rubles ($7.50) per person, a 5-course total including taxes.

Average dinner was around 600 rubles ($9.25) per person, 5 courses including taxes. We had good meals every time, and at each place we dinned. The only disappointment was the night that she wanted sushi. We sat down at a sushi place near the Cathedral of Saint Michael the Archangel, only to be told that the sushi chef needed an hour to begin making sushi. We politely slipped out to another venue.

On night we really splurged, taking the recommendation of a friend. That dinner was very special with a fresh fish entree, a salad especially created in honour of my wife's birthday, and lavish dessert. Cost: Approximately $100, and my wife's delight with the meal made it worth every penny. It was her night and I let her choose the setting and she ordered for both of us. I just sat back and marveled at the wonderful lady that God has allowed me to love.

We didn't eat any full meals along the water boardwalks, but we did snack on fresh fruit and berries being sold by residents. A Baskin Robbins shop sold ice cream.

[ML]

Great story Jim.  Everyone would be proud of such a wife.

Thanks much for sharing.

[msmobyone]

Hi  Mendy,

Congrats to Mrs M

Wonderful to read that I'm not the only Sochi-phile 

I have no idea about staying at the hotels - but I recognise the places in your photos. There's plenty of 'southern republic cuisine' restaurants.

Watch out for a tanned lady with sl.asiatic features and a fox cub like dog... I can see you're [were] nearby

The Black Sea - NEVER - freezes in Sochi - due to it's sub tropical micro climate - it is warmer in winter and doesn't reach the near 40C temps of Crimea.

[ML]

Also, just curious Jim . . . given your wife's important connections . . . what happened with her bank account problems?

Could she reach out to these important connections to help?

[mendeleyev]

We spent one day touring the Olympic villages in nearby Adler which was part work/part holiday for me. The 2014 Winter Olympics ushered in a new and very modern airport, new train stations, and many new hotels. Many of the hotels are either American or European flagged.

I had an assignment from a news organization to make a report on how facilities have fared since the Olympics. In my estimation, they have fared fine. I didn't experience any weird toilet facilities, no rundown restaurants, etc. Perhaps the editors will be disappointed, but I believe that despite the mass corruption and deliberate cost over-runs of the Sochi project, the region will benefit in the long run. The development of Sochi and Adler has created a potential legacy of tourism--if managed correctly.

Many of the living facilities/athlete dorms have been turned into boarding school and/or orphanage living spaces. The second half of that day was spent up in the mountains where the ski and snow competitions took place. We rode all the way to the top, had lunch at a restaurant about halfway, and stepped out into the snow and ice that is there year-round.

The lines to just ride up and down the slopes during the day were long with plenty of paying riders, mostly between the ages of 18-40. We did notice that in the evening the place emptied quickly and became sort of an post-Olympic ghost town.

The only anti-American sentiment we experienced was when we stopped at a station about halfway to the top for lunch. I had a very serious camera hanging around my neck and the middle age couple just behind us in line were eying me intently. Finally, the man asked if I was a journalist? Yes, I replied. From where? I am American, I answered. At that instant he pointedly turned his back and refused to converse further. Mrs M and I were chuckling because he remained that way in line, with his back turned forward, and so his wife had to guide him as he actually walked backward thru the rest of the line.

[mendeleyev]

Also, just curious Jim . . . given your wife's important connections . . . what happened with her bank account problems?

Could she reach out to these important connections to help?

Thank you for your kind words. I feel like the most lucky guy on the planet.

That issue, thankfully, is slowing being resolved thanks to the attorney we hired. We tend to be very cautious in calling in favours, partly out of fear of being asked to return the same later--as often the reciprocal action may not be in our best interest. It is just the way Russia 'works'.

[mendeleyev]

Moby, you have probably seen this next scene. I paid 20 rubles, cheaper than the 30 ruble standard in Moscow, to use this toilet.

For the record, I do not consider this to be weird. You can find these in almost any city in Russia, especially where there is a Muslim population. One of my favourite places to shop around Moscow is near the Dubrovka Metro station, populated by many merchants from the former Soviet "Stans". These type of toilets are plentiful in that area. If they are clean, then I have no issue using one. There are bars/handles on the wall to assist if you need to sit.

For readers who do not think that you could use one of these, no worries as there are plenty of traditional (and very clean) toilets situated along the Sochi boardwalk.

[mendeleyev]

Most travelers these days go by plane. From Moscow it is just a 2 hour flight.

If you like to ride a Russian train (I do), the trip is at 23 hours, but the cost is about the same as the flight. Trains today on this route are modern and comfortable.

Planes on this route tend to be modern, and it is worth noting that Aeroflot has one of the youngest fleets of any major international carrier. They also serve a meal with wine on flights that happen during a normal meal time.

[msmobyone]

Most travelers these days go by plane. From Moscow it is just a 2 hour flight.

If you like to ride a Russian train (I do), the trip is at 23 hours, but the cost is about the same as the flight. Trains today on this route are modern and comfortable.

Planes on this route tend to be modern, and it is worth noting that Aeroflot has one of the youngest fleets of any major international carrier. They also serve a meal with wine, on those flights that happen during a normal meal time.

Mendy,

the double-decker train - much more modern - usually  costs more than flying - at non-peak times - I've flown from Moscow to Sochi for 30USD, one way.

[mendeleyev]

We also made our way across the Sochi Skypark bridge. Readers may not know that it was developed in collaboration with bridge designers from New Zealand. Construction took two years, and there are 740 tons of metal and 2,000 cubic meters of concrete used to complete this wonder. Designers say that the bridge, the world's longest suspension bridge, is designed to withstand a 9-magnitude earthquake and can safely hold up to 3,000 people at a time.
 
The facilities leading to and around the Skypark bridge are still under construction and I would imagine that before long there will be hotels and other tourist facilities nearby. The road to get there is definitely "third world" at this stage, and under constant repair due to flooding from poorly planned methods to handle snow melt runoff given so much new construction.
 

[mendeleyev]

Mendy,

the double-decker train - much more modern - usually  cost more than flying - at non-peak times - I've flown from Moscow to Sochi for 30USD, one way.

I've noticed that. While I love Russian trains, Mrs. M wanted to be there faster and given that it was her birthday--I booked the flights.

[mendeleyev]

I love old cars. On the way down from the Skypark Bridge we spotted these. They were carefully fenced in and when coming close to make photos, a couple of fiercely barking guard dogs let me know of their presence. No problem--there was a fence between them and me.

The road as I mentioned earlier is "third world" at best, and the setting is very rural. To spot these old gems in that context was such a treat!

I believe that one is an old Moskvitch and the other a LADA. I have no idea of their age.

[Anotherkiwi]

Wonderful to read that I'm not the only Sochi-phile 

Not fair  - I've posted several times that I love the place!

[Anotherkiwi]

Moby, you have probably seen this next scene. I paid 20 rubles, cheaper than the 30 ruble standard in Moscow, to use this toilet.

For the record, I do not consider this to be weird. You can find these in almost any city in Russia, especially where there is a Muslim population...If they are clean, then I have no issue using one. There are bars/handles on the wall to assist if you need to sit.

For readers who do not think that you could use one of these, no worries as there are plenty of traditional (and very clean) toilets situated along the Sochi boardwalk.

Unfortunately they didn't have any "traditional" ones at the Railway Station when I was there - except in the disabled toilet.  The old babushka in charge was very sniffy when I asked for the key to the latter.  I had no mental problem with using them - so long as there was a door, which was both a reasonable height and which actually shut!    Unfortunately that particular combination was pretty rare - and certainly didn't exist in Sochi.

[mendeleyev]

Kiwi, the toilets we encountered along the boardwalk were often nicer and cleaner than in Moscow. I think that the makeover from the Olympics has really transformed the level of services in Sochi.

[msmobyone]

Not fair  - I've posted several times that I love the place!

My apologies, 

[mendeleyev]

While we were in the vicinity of the ski slopes, our friend from Sochi who was our guide that day knew that we might enjoy visiting a fairly secluded monastery nestled in a valley between the mountains. Visiting monasteries is something that both Mrs M and I enjoy, so we said yes.

троице георгиевский женский монастырь (Trinity-St George Women's Monastery/Convent) is a delightful little convent and we ended up spending a couple of hours on the premises.

When we arrived, a family group had arrived for the baptism of a baby and the ladies were dressed up so beautifully! That just seemed so remarkable because the area was so rural and off the beaten path. We had driven there on a one-lane road. When two cars met, one the drivers would need to pull almost off the road and hug the mountainside. The other driver then had to carefully creep by because the drop-off on the other side was dangerous and there were no barriers to stop a car from plunging below.

It was evening and it gets dark at night in Sochi, unlike the summer white nights of Moscow and other places further north. Mrs M loves to obtain blessed water and candles from monasteries, and this time was no different. We stepped into a small chapel opposite the main church and once I whispered the name of an icon to Mrs. M in English, soon we were speaking with a sister (nun) whose son had moved first to America, where he met a pretty Hispanic girl and then moved to Mexico. She was distraught that he had converted from Orthodoxy to Roman Catholicism in order to marry the girl.

As with so many monasteries, the setting was absolutely serene and peaceful. Behind the women's quarters I noticed one sister kneeling in the stream that ran behind the facility as she washed a bowl used to feed some of the small monastery animals. Out of politeness, I waited until certain that she had not seen me before snapping on the most unique photos one can make in a monastery visit.

[Anotherkiwi]

троице георгиевский женский монастырь (Trinity-St George Women's Monastery/Convent) is a delightful little convent and we ended up spending a couple of hours on the premises.

That is certainly a very pretty building.

[mendeleyev]

Here are some photos of beautifully rural Sochi.

In photos 3 and 4 you see a large yellow pipe and here is the colour coating code for Russia:

- Yellow denotes natural gas. Russian codes specify that natural gas pipes run above ground and are clearly identified in yellow.

- Larger silver or white pipes, usually insulated, carry hot water from centralized boilers to housing communities and business spaces. You see these all over the place where apartments were constructed prior to the early 2000s.

- Blue pipes, normally seen in more industrial locales or around train stations, are compressed air for pneumatic junctions.

[mendeleyev]

And more...

[Anotherkiwi]

Mendy, did you get to the Dendrarium or the 33 waterfalls?  They were the scenic highlights for me.

[msmobyone]

Mendy, did you get to the Dendrarium or the 33 waterfalls?  They were the scenic highlights for me.

Believe it, or not..the Dendarium Park is 15 mins walk from us and SC and I have NEVER been,yet 

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g298536-d307451-Reviews-Arboretum_Botanical_Garden_Dendrarium-Sochi_Greater_Sochi_Krasnodar_Krai_Southern_.html

It's on our 'to do' list