Three Months in Moscow

[Momus]

I’m in Moscow until May 1, and while I won’t offer a trip report, I thought I would share some of my impressions from my extended stay. I hope to add to this thread as time goes on!

I have a new appreciation for the predicament of immigrants (legal and otherwise) in the US who do not speak English. I’ve traveled fairly extensively, but always on business or as a tourist -- I’ve never really “gone native” in a non-English-speaking country. Without a common language, the simplest things become a real challenge. Try getting a decent haircut when you can’t communicate with the barber.

I found a good café near our flat. Of course, no English-speakers to be found within, but we’ve managed to communicate the basics. My first time there, I asked for “cappuccino,” which the babushka understood, and then “sandwich,” which she didn’t. I pantomimed and was shortly rewarded with a grilled ham and cheese on toasted bread. I spend a lot of time there, now.

As luck would have it, M’s law firm was having a party on the evening I arrived in Moscow. We had a nice private room at a club, with all the food and booze we could stuff and pour into our bodies. It is the Moscow branch of an international firm based in Toronto, and most of the attorneys spoke English, so I had a great time. I played Russian billiards with the partner who heads the Moscow firm. The game is so ridiculously difficult that it could only have been invented by someone with the patience of a Russian.

Where they can be found at all, the wheelchair ramps in Moscow are generally fine examples of black humor. These rough concrete ramps are so ridiculously steep that I wouldn’t try climbing them in the ice and snow with two good legs -- they would surely defeat all but the most physically developed of the ambulation-challenged.

I have met most of M’s relatives, and they are all wonderful people. A couple even speak a few words of English. Her uncle was especially terrific; despite the bad rap Russian men get in the MOB industry, the ones I’ve met have been great. I found out after meeting him that he was a colonel in the KGB and worked in electronic signal intelligence.

The climate in Moscow is not so different from Minneapolis, and I thought I’d become pretty acclimated to cold weather. It seems, however, that bitter cold is much easier to tolerate when one spends almost all one’s time indoors or in one’s car. Walking around in it is a much different prospect. In the tradition of Eskimos and Douglas Adams, I have taken to cataloging the different experiences of cold, based in principle on the body parts that become numb: the spectrum starts with ears and nose, proceeds to feet, and ends with those parts that are, in the ordinary habits of life, usually warmest.

M is wonderful. Living apart for a couple months at a time has made us appreciate the simple pleasure of each other’s company. She likes going to the Music Conservatory and watching silly movies like “Garfield” on DVD. I think I will never tire of discovering her.

It is hard to quit smoking when Camel Lights are a buck a pack. I’m working on it.

[I/O]

despite the bad rap Russian men get in the MOB industry, the ones I’ve met have been great.

I couldn't agree more...!!!  Yes, I've seen a few numbskulls in Russia also, you see them in any country, but by and large, the Russian guys I know are first class company in any situation. Look forward to reading more over time.

I/O

[Bruce]

Great to hear things are going well.  Enjoy every moment!

[Muj]

Momus,

Good comparison of Moscow to Minneapolis, dont live there anymore but visit the relatives in Minn occassionally.   I found the subways in Moscow convenient when I wrote down all my destinations in Cyrilic with English beneath . 

[jj]

momus,

hope you have a good stay there.  I was in Moscow from feb 6 to feb 15. Stayed on old Arbat St. Had snow most days off and on.  Stayed with my fiancee from Volgograd. She knew her way around and it was a great experience.  The subway was a trip and learning experience but a efficient way to get millions of people around the city!  I admired the old ladies who sold their goods out in the snow , cold and wind to make a living.

The restaurants were great and enjoyed walking around the malls in Red Square.  My M. cooked some good russian meals in the apartment too.   And how about those pancakes?    I will be meeting her in Kiev next month and hope it will be as enjoyable as Moscow was.   I would only say however, as in any city as a stranger, I always looked over my shoulder from time to time.       

Hope you report  more-jj

[Momus]

Thanks for all of the kind words, all. 

M and I rented a flat, because she shares hers with her 82 year old grandmother. She's very sweet, but, you know. Our plan was to keep the flat until either we decide not to see each other anymore, or M immigrates to the US.

Anyway, the guy we rented the flat from is quite a story. Rich family, owns properties all over the city, plus a couple of large, new houses outside of town. Unfortunately, his mother and "her driver" were recently murdered. And it seems he owes some people some money, so he needs to sell some property fast. Including, of course, "our" flat. It's a nice place, and I thought about making the guy an offer he couldn't refuse, but yikes, too many disturbing questions and not enough good answers.

I haven't seen as much of it as some of the stories would lead you to expect, but the faces of alcoholism can be, er, sobering. Maybe it was payday in the last couple days, but the drunks have been out in force, stumbling around the sidewalks muttering to themselves, passed out in snowbanks, and so on. Today, at about 10:00 am, I saw a guy at one of those little convenience stores at the bus stops buy a one liter bottle of beer. He hoisted it with shaking hands and slammed it, still standing in front of the window. Then he tossed the bottle aside and bought another. I moved on, so I'm not sure how long this might have continued.

M and I saw "The Good Shepherd" on DVD. We enjoyed it, and had fun ribbing each other about the Cold War rivalry.

"You destroyed our economy, and now you destroy Ukraine's."

"Communism destroyed your economy, and the exhorbitant prices you charge Ukraine for their own gas is destroying their economy." 

"It is OUR gas! They steal our gas!"

"Yeah well, scoreboard baby."

"Hmm?"

I thought the movie was excellent. After 10+ years in the publishing industry, I feel guilty about the pirated DVDs here, but...not that guilty I guess.

[Momus]

I forgot the most "interesting" story. M and I were on the Metro yesterday. We sat down, and I noticed that there was a space maybe five feet in diameter where people weren't standing. I figured someone puked...I'd seen that a couple days before.

Anyway, at the next stop, I finally see into the middle of the huddle: There's a package there that someone had left on the train. People are eyeballing the package suspiciously...I'm frantically looking for the card that reads "From Chechnia with love." Of course, no one wants to get too close to the mysterious package, but no one is going to give up their spot on the train, either (or, maybe, I don't know, notify the cops or something).

The people standing a few feet from the package reminded me of Leslie Nielsen in that Naked Gun movie. He's trying to defuse a nuclear bomb on a timer. When there's only a few seconds left on the timer he says, "Let's get out of here!" Then, as I recall, he trips over the power cord and saves the day.

Ah, Russia...

[Kuna]

Cool updates Momus... Sounds like you're having good quality time with your girl...

Keep the posts coming...  We're all interested in your trip!

Kuna

[Elen]

Ah, Russia...

Ah, foreigners in Russia  Never could help themselves to add some "color" to their stories 

Ps such note would force somebody for sure to press that button which is on a wall at any car in metro Police would waite in next station and such accident would be in newspaers next morning 
Try yourself THIS way next time  if you be such lucky to see  a package with such a note one more time

[Momus]

Joke, Elen. There wasn't actually a card, and I wasn't literally looking for one. I'm tempted to begin footnoting my posts for your benefit. 

[Momus]

I'm engaged. 

[wiz]

I'm engaged. 

Congradulations and a happy ending.

[Kuna]

Congrats Momus... All the best to you and your fiance for a long and happy future.

[DKMM]

Woohoo!!  My congratulations!!

[Muj]

Congratulations Momus!